Sun, 27 May 2012 21:47:07 -0600WeeblyMon, 30 Apr 2012 10:51:57 -0600http://www.pocketswine.com/1/post/2012/04/2011-bordeaux-tasting-notes-by-jeff-moyers-of-pockets-wine-co.html. - April 30th 2012
I can sum-up the 2011 vintage for Bordeaux quickly and easily: 2011 Bordeaux Vintage = Fresh and Balanced. Suffice to say, the feedback I received on the 2011's from colleagues who had been in Bordeaux a couple of weeks prior to my visit differed clearly and distinctly from my own. Where they found wines to be " thin " I found them to be classic, even complex in certain instances. The 2011 vintage is indeed a departure from both the 2009 and 2010 vintages but the 2011 vintage is exactly what needed to come out of Bordeaux on the heels of those noted vintages. It's a drinkers vintage, without question, and without casting a broad net in saying so, I wouldn't expect most of these wines to last beyond a decade. And if they do I wouldn't expect them to show anything more than they will five years past the vintage. The " classic " Bordeaux Chateaux did indeed make some notable wine (with one exception) where others did falter as a result of the trying climate (summer and spring decided to switch places in 2011 it seems) and weather obstacles (on the Left Bank) and it shows in the bottle. Yields and production were down across the board on the Left Bank while it should be noted that the Right Bank, in some instances, actually showed an increase in production in 2011. What did come out, which comes as no surprise, is the Left Bank showed power while the Right Bank showed finesse (and elegance). What struck me during our visit to the Right Bank was how uniform the wines were from the 2011 vintage as there with the single exception being that of Ausone, there was a clear and distinct theme running through these wines and it's a theme which I most certainly embrace. And on a rather serious side note, Chateau Clinet, for me, was not only the star of Pomerol but is most certainly the stand-out wine for the Right Bank from the 2011 vintage. Here's a summation of what made my tasting notes from my April 2011 visit to Bordeaux: 2011 La Dame de Montrose -  Floral, lots of Merlot coming over the top, but elegant and easy drinking, one to have around while you're figuring out what to drink next. Truly a great deal of fun! 

2011 Montrose- Well-balanced, fresh tannins, fresh fruit, good finish and middle, lovely nose. The " surprise of the vintage ", not what I was expecting but I'll take it! 

2011 Petit Mouton - Somewhat muted nose which becomes quite floral after some time in the glass. Very thin in the front and mid-palate but with huge notes of coffee throughout (hard to miss really). Smacking tart-tannins on a finish from which I am happy to move away. 

2011 D'armaillac - completely different nose than the Petit-Mouton. Chalk-rock with lots of earth on the nose. Ripe tomatoes and red fruit on the front palate and mid palate. Loads of tannins, which are sharp, on the mid palate and finish. Hard as nails. 

2011 Clerc-Milon: Rich and ripe on the nose, strawberry sweet tart in fact. Again, completely different than the prior two wines but a similar palate to the D'armaillac. More fresh tomato and slightly thin throughout, does not have tannins to go the distance but shows plenty of acid. 

2011 Mouton-Rothschild – a classic Mouton on the nose, lovely lilac and good perfume as well. A balanced, good palate which continues with fresh red fruit, earth spice, ripe tomatoes, hint of tobacco and smoke on the finish (after stepping away for 60 seconds). It's all here except the meat you'd expect from a Mouton. Not much tannin or acidity, I fear it will have a very short life.

2011 Gloria - nose very closed, not giving away anything. Slowly opening up, mostly earth and mineral after a bit. Somewhat thin on the front and middle but lots of tannins and acidity. Limited red fruit on the nose and palate. Hard and angular at times, there's nothing soft about this wine. Fresh-clean tannins and fruit but once again not one for the ages. 

2011 Chateau Saint-Pierre - A classic St. Julien nose, good balance of brick and rose and mineral....some light–brine mixed in as well. Balanced in the palate with loads of tannins on the front and back, however has a light mouth feel as do most of the 2011's (except Montrose). Well made and solid from start to finish. If you enjoy drinking young Bordeaux, this is the perfect wine. 

2011 Le Crock - Sweet jam fruit on the nose, dried fruit on the palate. Surprise of this visit to this producer. Quite good, balanced, easy to drink. One of my picks to drink. Big. Dense color dances around the glass. 

2011 Moulin Riche - Red fruit and plum on the nose. Hard as nails, big as a foot, queer nose. Not my cup of tea. Slightly dense color but beyond that, not much to talk about  here. 

2011 Leoville-Poyferre - Classic St. Julien nose, not as thick or full as the Le Crock. Delicate, elegant, dark, with notes of vanilla, fresh raspberries, and aged casis on the nose. Get more sense of the Merlot than the Cabernet Sauvignon. Big but lean, beautiful color coming off this wine, dead-center in the crossroads between new world and old world.

2011 Pauillac by Latour: Big, tannic, bites back. Classic noses with notes of chalk-rose, a truly lovely wine. 

2011 Les Forts de Latour: MASSIVE, powerful, tanic, a big boy for sure. So big and tannic it's hard to taste anything else but some purple-red fruit does pique-out just a tad. Nose differs from Latour, more muted, less classic. Good structure and balance. 

2011 Latour - strong, direct nose, hard to get a handle on what it wants to do but it's there and it wants you to know it. Equally massive to 2011 LFDL……just bigger, stronger, powerful in all the right places. Classic nose for Latour and Paulliac. Classic structure and backbone, a perfect wine, maybe the wine of the 2011 vintage. 

2011 Lynch Bages: With the exception of the 2011 white wine from Lynch Bages, this vintage was a complete " miss " from this producer, in fact I'd go as far as to say their wines from this vintage are poor at best. 2011 Lynch Bages White - quite good, nose jumps out of the glass. Quince and fresh lime, orange, tangerine, and citrus. 2011 Alter Ego - lovely nose, somewhat muted-Margaux traditional nose, deep-dark rich color, fresh, soft tannins and red fruit. Softer acid and tannin than anything else tried to date. Alcohol is down, limited sweetness. Won't be approachable quickly, needs time. 

2011 Palmer - slightly vegetal initially on the nose which is a surprise for Margaux however the perfume you'd expect does show-up rather quickly after a bit of time in the glass (lovely in fact) as the nose grows on you. As with the Ego, color is deep, dark, and concentrated. Lots of acid and sharp tannin, this too will take time to show what it can do however it has serious potential. Pretty big for Margaux but that's Palmer for you. Has the power of 2010 without the alcohol, acidity and fruit of the 2006. The wine of the day at the start of Day 2…….and still the wine of the day at the end of Day 2. Latour, Palmer, and Clinet are my vintages of this vintage. 

2011 Ducru-Beaucaillou & Croix de Beaucaillou - I liked the Croix better than the Ducru. The Ducru is a little thin on the front, tannic in the middle, acidic on the finish, not one I care to revisit any time soon. It's all over the place really. 

2011 Pontet Canet - Somewhat thin and a true disappointment coming off the stellar 2009 and 2010 from this producer. Smells and looks like Pontet-Canet and misses in places but classic Pontet throughout. One to revisit and could be quite good though won't last for any length. 

2011 Cos D'Estournel: Across the board, pretty darn good which came as a surprise to me given I didn't like their 2010 one bit. This wine is NOT " thin " as advertised, better than Pontet (or at least it's showing better right now), most certainly one to watch. Their white wine is quite good! 

2011 Lynch Bages: With the exception of the 2011 white wine from Lynch Bages, this vintage was a complete miss for Lynch Bages, in fact I'd go as far as to say their wines from this vintage are poor at best. 

2011 Pavillon-Rouge: Classic PV nose and quite good I do think but quite different from Margaux. This is a complicated vintage I am discovering, there's really character here but its not as obvious as in prior vintages. Very good.

2011 Margaux: A somewhat classic Margaux nose, combination of " fruits and flowers " however there's more spice and less perfume than I am used to here. Clean and classic but needs time to show what it can do. This is a very good wine but a complete departure from the 2009 and 2010 vintage. Great balance, acidity, and finish.....beautiful to look at as well. Not the wine of this vintage but a very good, classic wine from Chateau Margaux.  

2011 Clinet: Easily the best wine from the Right Bank and lands in my Top 3 wines from the 2011 vintage along with Latour and Palmer. Striking color and gorgeous nose, showing a true balance between red fruit and earth with an accompanying finish to match. Elegant and lovely on the palate, from start to finish, with balance between the fruit, tannin, and acidity. The nose matches the palate as well, showcases the most " Burgundy-like " Bordeaux wine I've come across in my career. I think this is not only a wine to drink but one to hold over the coming years to see where it will take you. 

2011 Château Pichon Longueville Baron: Another standout from the 2011 vintage, I am happy to see what's happening at this estate, they have truly solidified their position in the wine world, surpassing the wines of their neighbor across the road with a slightly similar name. Powerful and bold but with a true sense of finesse and elegance. Good show! 

2011 Beausejour Becot: A seemingly interesting vintage for this producer as their wines were somewhat muddled and just didn't show very well (in my opinion).  A lovely nose but lacking a mid palate and follows with a somewhat off-putting acidic finish. Given their location, I would like to revisit to try them again once they've settled down a bit. 


2011  Clos Fourtet: A lovely color but a bit " chunky " in the palate as this wine seems to lack focus. I would say this producer is still trying to find its style and the 2011 vintage isn't doing much to help them with that, maybe in 2012? 

2011 Troplong Mondot – Truly a lovely wine made by truly lovely people. Elegant, balanced, easy to drink, lovely color as well. Based upon tastings of Troplong from similar past vintages, this one is a keeper and should show well for 5-10 years. A true drinkers wine to be enjoyed now but I would like to revisit in 6 months and again in a year as I believe there's more to this wine than it's showing me currently. 

2011 Ausone – This is the only " Parker wine " I've come across during this visit to Bordeaux, show-casing everything Mr. Parker likes and looks for in a wine from Bordeaux. Too ripe, too extracted, too expensive. Pass. 

2011 Canon – along with the Troglong Mondot and Clinet, a true stand-out from the Right Bank. Classic Canon with power, balance, and finesse. Bold yet fresh in the nose and palate, serious but well-balanced acidity and tannin. This wine will go the distance and I'm not so sure in 5 (or so) years this wine doesn't get revisited  and receive higher marks than any on the Right Bank (including Ausone). 

2011 Canon La Gaffeliere – If ever a wine demonstrated a theme, it's the wines from Canon La Gaffeliere. A remarkable accomplishment to make so many wines stand alone, on their own, yet with a " common thread " running through them. Bravo to Stephan von Neipperg! He's done well in 2011 and I'd buy/drink all their wines from this vintage.]]>Tue, 10 Apr 2012 10:49:14 -0600http://www.pocketswine.com/1/post/2012/04/2011-bordeaux-primeur-tasting-nicholas-silvers.htmlOverall, I found the vintage to be surprisingly good!  These are not like the 2009s or 2010s where cellaring is a must, but they can be consumed while we wait for the previous two vintages to mature.  There were clear winners and they tend to be the ones that spent the time in the vineyards cropping back and vigorously selecting/sorting.  I also think that by waiting an extra week to go taste, it let the wines come together better than those that tasted 2-4 weeks earlier and reviewed accordingly.  I am compelled and will go back in June or July to re taste as I truly believe that in another few months these wines will continue to improve.  If there is a left bank appellation that outperformed it is St. Julien.  I think the right bank was better on the whole at this stage.  Without further ado, here are my notes:

Dame de Montrose - Not bad actually. A bit hard but not relentless. Should open up and be a nice drinking wine by delivery. Very lovely. 

Montrose - Beautiful floral nose. Very dry and hard on the pallet. Not thin in the least. Started to open up and show a bit with air. Will be interesting to see what the next 6-12 months bring, but I have hope for this one. This is very interesting. 

Petit Mouton - Nice nose. Very soft tannin. Petit Mouton keeps getting better. This will be a lovely drink on release. A little thin on fruit. 

D'Armaillhac - Almost Eucaliptessy on the nose. Builds on the pallet with okayfruit and has a surprising balance of tannin and acidity. Quite a long finish. Not a complicated wine but a very nice drink. Simple. 

Clerc Milon - Cherried nose. Bigger, rounder than D'Armailhac. More fruit (dark). Well balanced again. Nice finish but a little short at this stage. 

Mouton Rothschild - This has a deep complicated nose. This is a massive, rich wine. Solid but not over powering tannin. Lovely acidity. Has the Mouton meat to it. However, compared to its peers, this is a disappointing one to me. 

Gloria - Beautiful floral nose. Huge mouthful of fruit. Soft tannin beautiful acidity. This a very complete wine and another successful Gloria for sure.  As a side note, the Gloria wines have been getting better and better and represent an incredible value. 

St Pierre - This is quite big and currently reserved. That said, nothing wrong. Nice nose, great dark fruit. Bigger, rounder tannin and still the great acidity. This is quite good yet again. Like Gloria, the Triaud family is really on a roll.  St. Pierre might be the best classified value in the Medoc. Any collector and drinker must be buying these wines.

Moulin Riche (Poyferre) - Great fruit/tannin balance. Builds on the pallet long finish. Great value. No young vines. Will be a good, inexpensive drinking wine.

Leoville Poyferre - Whoa! Can't believe this is a 2011. Has it all. Power, integration, fruit, tannin, acidity. Long finish. Just complete. Winner again! 

On an absolute roll. This will be one of the longer lived 11s. Monstrous yet with the class of Poyferre.  I've said it before and must reiterate it again, this estate is now at the top of the game and it should be purchased in earnest before the prices catch up!

Pauillac (Latour) - Big open floral nose. Explosive fruit with very soft tannin and acidity. It is a pleasure but don't wait. Drink away with pleasure.

Les Forts de Latour - Much more complex florals on the nose. Big LFDL. Ripe fruit, ripe tannin nice acidity. Smokin'!

Latour - Tight on the nose but the essence is there. Big beast, complex and ripe on the pallet and long finish. This one needs time and should show more accordingly. Big buggar. This is a champion on the vintage.

Reserve de la Comtesse - Something very specific on the nose I can't peg. Good fruit and acidity with softer tannins. Pleasant and fine value but I think there are others for the money. 

Pichon Lalande - Dark spicy nose. Round dark fruit spice box pallet. Nice, not too soft but not huge tannin. Decent acidity. Given my disappointment relative to the vintage in 09 and 10, this is quite good. A bit short on the finish but that may change.  Very typical Lalande as far as elegance.

Ormes de Pez - Big surprise!  Big ripe, extracted wine with lush tannin and acidity. Good finish. I don't usually have any special feel for this wine but this stands out.  Very impressive.


Echo de Lynch Bages - A bit sour really. Not horrible but certainly nothing special.  I will taste again but am quite disappointed.

Lynch Bages - The best grapes went here. Big and rich. A bit tannin heavy but nice acidity and good finish. Dark fruit for sure. 

Lynch Bages blanc - Very tropical nose that explodes from the glass. Fresh and white peach like fruit and acidity. Delicious!


Day 2:



Alter Ego - Deep concentrated wine. Dark, dark fruit. Good balance. Quite tannic at this point against the fruit but just needs a bit of time. 

Palmer - Dark colour, purple ruby. Dark fruit nose. Reserved at this point on the nose. Beautiful, concentrated fruit which you can chew on. Again, heavy tannin but balances with acidity. This will be a great wine but require time for sure. I would say too tannic but every time I think it the fruit explodes through. Tiny yields. Lowest in 50 years. Clearly another champion of the vintage.  Shame there will be so little available.

Croix de Beaucaillou - Deep floral nose and follows through on the pallet. Not a massive wine and very fine tannin. A bit thin but nice early drink. 

Ducru Beaucaillou -  A bit thin on the start. Full of dark fruit and builds on the pallet. Plenty on tannin and acidity but totally balanced with the fruit. Only a couple of years to age and should be lovely to drink. Prefer Poyferre and St Pierre. Overall I'm disappointed, especially given that the St. Julien appelation was the best in the Medoc.

Pibran (Pichon Baron) - Rose nose. Nice wine again. Just a pleasant drinker. I've really come to enjoy this wine.

Pichon Baron - Big floral dark nose. Smells like Baron. Dark berry. Lovely, lovely wine. Has that Baron punch vs the Lalande elegance. Nice finish. Winning wine!

Pontet Canet - Has the rich Pontet nose. Lush dark berry fruit. Full and balanced with a nice finish. Truly Pontet. Not like 09/10 but a very good wine for 11. This will be an exciting wine for early consumption, but expect a much lighter version of the same profiles.

Cos d'Estournel - Big blackberry fruit pallet. NOT thin. Big rich lush. A little short on the finish. Very good actually. I'm very surprised.  This is one of my big surprise wines of the vintage.  As a side note the Pagodes and Goulee are also really good.

Haut Batailley - Nice but a bit light. Still nice fruit/tannin/acidity. Nice early drink.

Grand Puy Lacoste - Very nice ripe wine all around. As always, value for the money. GPL is consistently making great wine at a fraction of the cost of their contemporaries.

Pavillon Rouge - Nice rich nose. Deeply concentrated and powerful Pav. Layers of fruit with great balance. Nice finish. 

Margaux - Very strange (not skunky) nose. May blow off. Super concentrated fruit with soft/pleasant tannin and beautiful acidity/freshness. Black fruit. This is very good.


Day 3:



Clinet - Almost black in colour. Dark fruit, ripe plum nose. Huge bouquet and very serious. Big, ripe, rich, black fruit with round tannin and great freshness and acidity. Long, large finish yet the Clinet elegance. Very good again. 

Beausejour Becot - Spice box nose. Ripe fruit with that spicy punch from the cab franc with a nice sweetness. Very integrated tannin and real freshness on the finish. So dark and concentrated. 

Clos Fourtet - Super dark and concentrated. Big ripe, black fruit. Lovely minerality. Soft round tannin. Nice but not long finish. Very good overall.  I look forward to re tasting in a couple of months as I believe this will start to stand out. 

Troplong Mondot - Deep rose florals. Typical massive Troplong. Very very big but very together. Builds and builds as air draws. Ripe tannin and incredible freshness and acidity. 

Chapelle d'Ausone - Funky on nose to me. Powerful red fruits. Round tannin. Very fresh. 

Ausone - Almost a smoked meat with dark nose. Explosive red fruits and roses. Very rounded tannin but extremely elegant. Super finish and long. Very impressive and makes me think that the Chapelle will come along.

Canon - Plums and fig. Blackberry, goose berry. Berry in general with floral and and lovely floral finish. On the lighter side but elegant.  As a side note, the 2010 was opened for us after the 2011 and it was just amazing!  I literally started dancing in the Chateau (which I'm sure was quite a sight!).

La Mondotte - Floral. Sweet fruit and elegant. Very. Soft smooth tannin. Nice acidity.  A lovely wine. 

Canon La Gaffeliere - Violet nose. Beautiful florals and red fruit. Soft, elegant round tannin and a lovely finish. The spice of cab franc.  This is often over looked yet I have not been able to figure out why.  Try a bottle for yourself and decide would be my suggestion. 

Carillon Angelus - Floral/violet nose. Beautiful bouquet pallet and great finish. Cab Franc very evident. 

Bellevue - Sweet cherry/strawberry nose. Limestone shows through and red fruit follows. Really good overall. 

Angelus - Red roses. Spice box and dark fruit. Really lovely and layered. Elegant supple tannins. Very fresh.  Angelus keeps making their case to be upgraded in the forthcoming reclassifications in St. Emilion.  

]]>Thu, 22 Mar 2012 09:18:22 -0600http://www.pocketswine.com/1/post/2012/03/2010-pousse-dor-nicholas-silvers.html This is the most scenic and beautiful property in my mind throughout the Cote d'Or.  A few days out of each year on clear days, you can even see Mont Blanc from the estate.  The natural topography as well as the resources of the current owner have allowed for a perfect set up to have the wine made using gravity.  In the past several years, the quality of wines coming out of Pousse d'Or have gone through the roof.  They have now added vineyards such as Bonnes Mares, Clos de la Roche and Amoureuse though the production is tiny.  Unfortunately, we did not get to taste all of their 2010s because their production was down a whopping 40% from 2009, but what we did have made the point!  As a side note, these wines represent great values.

Volnay Caillerets 1er Cru - Dark fruit on the nose.  Big, lush, ripe, great acidity but calm smooth tannins and a superb finish. 

Volnay Clos de la Bousse d'Or 1er Cru - White lilac floral nose.  Feminine but by no means light or lacking in any way.  Beautiful elegance but time is necessary.

Volnay Clos des 60 Ouvrees 1er Cru - Much deeper nose than the Bousse.  Deeper everything.  This is a stunner. Dark fruit and a bit more tannin but very much in balance.  Needs time but a must have.

Corton Clos du Roi Grand Cru - Big and ripe but opened up with some air.  Dark fruit, controlled tannins and balanced acidity.  It has a long, powerful finish but really needs at least ten years of cellaring.

Chambolle Musigny - Normally I don't spend a lot of time on village level wines.  However, this one forced my hand.  It is the best village red I can remember tasting.  It is just so amazing for a village level wine that everyone needs to find some.  I enjoyed the Vogue and Mugnier village Chambolles but this one wipes the floor with them!

Chambolle Musigny Feusselots 1er Cru - We had this immediately following the above village Chambolle which is a shame.  It is lovely in every way, but my guess is I would have thought more highly of it had we had it on its own.  So either it is really good or the village Chambolle above is just that great of a village wine.

Puligny Montrachet Caillerets 1er Cru (From Magnum) - White floral and citrus nose.  It has a great, full but elegant pallet.  It was a bit tight on the finish but given the vintage as well as the fact that the mag had been open for four days I am not in the least bit surprised at its restraint.  That said, it is a fabulous wine.
]]>Thu, 22 Mar 2012 09:16:48 -0600http://www.pocketswine.com/1/post/2012/03/2010-af-gros-nicholas-silvers.html The Gros family's wines are strangers to no one.  While Anne Gros seems to have the most demand, her wines from AF Gros have been getting big scores and with good reason.  They have really performed from top to bottom with their 2010s (admittedly many have) and they are worth a look for any serious collector/drinker.

Vosne Romanee Clos de la Fontaine Monopole - This is a very complex yet fine wine.  It is already balanced and elegant.  The vines in this vineyard are relatively young and it shows but I don't want to take anything away from it.  It will probably be one of the earlier drinking wines.

Vosne Romanee Maizieres - Really good wine.  It is complex and expressive and while the nose is a bit tight the pallet is full of everything 2010 has to offer.

Pommard Les Pezerolles - This is vineyard is terre blanche in Pommard.  It has beautiful silky tannins, integration and balace.  Very much my style Pommard without the hard iron profiles you get from the terre rouge sites in Pommard.  Excellent. 

Pommard Epeneaux - Much of the same notes as above but this one clearly needs more time.

Echezeaux - Like Clos de Vougeot, the Echezeaux vineyard in 2010 seems to be outstanding among all the producers I have had.  There is depth and complexity with many layers to dig in to.  The tannins are fine but rich fruits and beautiful acidity.  Must buy.

Richebourg - The first sniff got a "Whoa!" out of  my mouth.  This has everything: fruit, tannin, acidity, and balance layer after layer. It is not as huge as some Richebourgs but who cares.  This is a truely amazing wine!

]]>Thu, 22 Mar 2012 09:16:07 -0600http://www.pocketswine.com/1/post/2012/03/2010-henri-boillot-nicholas-silvers.html Henri Boillot has long been making exceptional wines.  His 2010s are no exception.  It would be hard to nitpick over points on these as they are all really great but here are the highlights:

Meursault Genevrieres - This is a must have wine.  In fact, as successful as 2010 is for white Burgs, the Genevrieres vineyard really seemed to be one worth watching/owning in this vintages.  Absolutely superb!

Puligny Montrachet Clos de Mouchere 1er Cru Monopole - I have always loved this wine and this one will definately go in the cellar.  It was a bit more tight and less forward than the others on the nose but absolutely explodes on the pallet.  Additionally, it always represents good value.

Volnay Fermier 1 er Cru - It has an extremely floral and forward nose and is a big buggar!  Its round and a bit tannic at this stage and is a beast of a Volnay.  The location is very close to Pommard and it shows as it is borderline hard.  I found the nose a pallet to be complete opposites and this wine will need loads of time to come around.

Volnay Chevrets 1er Cru - This also had a beautiful floral nose but was a bit chalkier.  Much more silky, spicy and feminine compared to the Fermier.  I loved this wine and would certainly be a buyer as it can be enjoyed relatively early as well as has the parts to age extremely well.

Clos de Vougeots Marputuis - In general, I've been amazed by Clos de Vougeots in 2010.  This was no exception.  It is big, complex, rich and extremely charateristic and expressive.  I tend to avoid CDVs but will not be doing so in 2010.  Especially this one.

Chambertin - Wow!  I really cannot verbalize just how great this wine is.  Just incredible in every way, shape and form.  Just buy it (if you can find it).

]]>Wed, 21 Mar 2012 09:15:36 -0600http://www.pocketswine.com/1/post/2012/03/dinner-at-bistro-de-lhotel-nicholas-silvers.html The Bistro at L'Hotel has long been my favorite place to eat in Beaune.  The ingredients are bought fresh every day and one can tell immediately.  The made from scratch foie gras is a must.  It is everything anyone would look for in foie.  The baked chicken is simple and delicious which I think can be said for anything that comes out of the tiny kitchen.  This is a place that you can go to for food alone, but we had three wines that were to say the least interesting.

We started with a 1939 Faiveley Romanee St Vivant.  I can't seem to help myself when I find war years wines and while this was not a miracle in wine making, it was certainly worth the shot.  The nose was not very pleasant nor did that change in the glass.  However, I found the wine to be very interesting on the pallet.  I half expected it to be materized, but quite enjoyed it.  Not everyone at the table agreed but such is life in tasting wines with age.  Clearly it had seen better days, but along with the foie gras it was pleasurable to drink and did not peak and fall once opened.  All in all an interesting exprience.

We moved on to a 1972 Tortochet et Fils Chambertin.   Wines from 1972 are a better than they get credit for.  This was a great bottle of Chambertin from a less known producer, and it exuded all the qualities of Chambertin and still had freshness and liveliness. 

Last, we had a 1988 Peirazeau-Groffier Chambertin Clos de Beze.  When we opened the bottle it smelled like trash.  Aftert putting the glasses aside for an hour, the nose blew off and turned quite lovely and it turned out to be a charming bottle of wine. 

While none of these were show stoppers, they were good to really good and very educational.  I am not a big preponent of wines needing to be paired with food but in the case of all of these, I really do believe it enhanced them versus drinking them on their own.

]]>Wed, 21 Mar 2012 09:15:10 -0600http://www.pocketswine.com/1/post/2012/03/j-f-coche-dury-nicholas-silvers.html For anyone reading this that knows me, it goes without saying that you know Coche is by far and away my favorite wine maker on the planet.  Chances are if you have dined with me, you have enjoyed the experience of his wines to know why.  Coche is probably the single most meticulous, perfectionist of a producer regardless of what nature hands him anywhere.  He is not driven by money, popularity or anything other than the desire to make the absolute best wines from his vineyards.  Each time I have been able to see him, it is nothing short of a spiritual experience for me.  Today was no exception.  In fact, this was the most comprehensive tasting I have had with him and I am as always, eternally grateful for his hospitality and candor.

Though I know better than to be late to see any of the Vingneron, we were especially vigilant about being on time to see Coche especially given our morning Mugnier event.  As our appointment was at 5pm (Coche does not take day time meetings as that is time to be spent working) we showed up in his driveway at 4:55.  After a bit of milling around his son came out.  We spoke for a minute and he called his father who had mistaken which day we were coming.  He asked if we could come back at 6:30 and graciously said that would be fine.  When we returned just before 6:30, there were no cars, all of the window shutters had been closed and it was looking as though we may get stood up.  I promised the rest of my group that he would not possibly do that and to hang in there.  We did and he showed, and I will say at this early moment of the year that we had what I consider to be the best tasting of 2012 (certainly, for pre-release wines).  As 2010 is a massively successful vintage for both reds and whites, I had big expectations and was not let down in the most comprehensive tasting I have had there.  Each level of his wines excels above other producers equivalent levels in my mind.  The notes can go on and on but at the end of the day, the experience is what is reality.  No one else in my group had been to taste with him before and I had built up a very big experience in their minds to the point where a let down would be possible but Coche blew them all away!  The run down of the wines is:

2010s - Bourgogne Blanc, Meursault Luchets, Meursault Chaumes, Meursault Vieuril Dessus, Meursault Narvaux, Meursault Chevalieres, Meursault Caillerets 1er Cru, Meursault Genevrieres 1er Cru, Meursault Perrieres 1er Cru, Corton Charlemagne, Bourgogne Rouge, Auxey-Duresses, Pommard, Volnay 1er Cru (blend of Clos des Chenes and Taillepieds), and as a kicker he opened and drank a bottle of 2009 Meursault Perrieres.

Tasting all of the different vineyards of Meursault before they are blended was an amazing experience.  Each one was definitely his signature but it showed an amazing divergence you get from each plot.  Some with far more forward minerality and razor sharp while others a bit more lush and rounded.  This was my first time having his Genevrieres and I was thrilled.  I had heard from a couple of people that his 2004 was a bit disappointing but whether it was an issue of vine maturity or his getting comfortable with the vineyard, it is all irrelevant now as this was incredible.  The 09 and 10 Meursault Perrieres practically brought me to my knees and the Corton Charlemagne stopped though show (though it clearly needs the most time).  We asked Coche what other vintage he might compare the 2010s to and he said 2004.  Everyone knows how great a thing that is!  He specifically compared the 2010 Perrieres to the 1978.  I have be fortunate enough one time to have the 1978 Coche Perrieres and to date it is the only wine that has made my eyes well up with tears as a point of reference.  The other suggestion he made was not to bother drinking the Corton Charlemagne for roughly 20-25 years.  And yes, it is that big and amazing!  When we asked him what he thinks is drinking the best now, he suggested 2000 and 2006 initially and later added 1997 and 2003.

So, I know this was a long one and I did actually try to keep it brief, but I am always happy to discuss his wines in more detail.

]]>Wed, 21 Mar 2012 09:14:39 -0600http://www.pocketswine.com/1/post/2012/03/domaine-jf-mugnier-nicholas-silvers.html Our day started today with a visit to see Freddy Mugnier.  We were running about 20 minutes late unfortunately, and it seemed that this left Mr. Mugnier displeased.  The auto door bell actually rang for so long that I really thought we had missed our window.  Fortunately, we were received and we were able to taste and talk for a few minutes.   It was a very cold morning and the cellars reflected it.  That only makes these remarks about his 2010s even more impressive.  Across the board, his 2010s are unreal.  While I will say the the Chambolle and Fuees were just OK, I was shocked completely buy the Clos des Marechale as being remarkable just after the first two.  The Amoureuses was showing a bit tighter than the others but you could tell all the parts were there and I have no question greatness will ensue.  Now, Bonnes Mares and Musigny: I will let the professional writers give you the detailed descriptors but these wines are just off the charts great.  Both of them, no questions are wines that make legend.  Unquestionably, like the vintage as a whole, they most certainly need time before really being approachable and I suspect they will close down shortly after bottling.

]]>Tue, 20 Mar 2012 09:14:05 -0600http://www.pocketswine.com/1/post/2012/03/comte-de-vogue-nicholas-silvers.html My traveling companions and I took a drive to have a taste and talk at de Vogue today.  We were greeted by the ageless and ever pleasant Jean-Luc Pepin who I met probably 12 years ago for the first time.  He is and always has been one of the easiest and most pleasant people to talk to and is always happy to do so.  While the wines are always the most important thing, marketing never hurts and as commercial director he is king of his domain. 

As for the wines: unfortunately, we arrived just as bottling for many of the 2010s had finished and the last of the 2010 Bonnes Mares was on the line.  We did taste the 2010 Musigny from barrel and to say it was a stunner would be a short coming (I will be writing about the amazing 2010 vintages shortly).  This has everything a great wine should have and needs to wear the badge of greatness.  In fairness, I have always been partial to Bonnes Mares and certainly Amoureuses over Musigny from Vogue but this particular Musigny is a show stopper!  As a side note, we did taste all of the 2011s from barrel but only the Amoureuses had begun and then stopped again malo so I will hold all opinions as I find it very hard to judge at such a stage. 

]]>Tue, 20 Mar 2012 09:13:21 -0600http://www.pocketswine.com/1/post/2012/03/2010-burgundy-report-nicholas-silvers.html After spending a week in Burgundy tasting the 2010 reds and whites both during the Grands Jours tastings and at the Domaines, I can sum up the vintage very easily: legendary!

I hate to be so repetitive to 2010 Bordeaux, but this is without question an amazing vintage.  Again, like I did with Bordeaux I revert to my pallet preference leaning toward classic styled wines, but I would be surprised if anyone debated the greatness that the 2010s possess.  In its simplest possible form, they have great tannins, great fruit and great acidity.  The reds are going to be long lived.  Certain vineyards stood out that normal don't get my attention except for a few exceptions.  Clos de Vougeot in particular has always been very hit and miss at best, but with 2010s, I can't even recall all of the great CDVs I tasted.  Echezeaux, which I always tend to like is exceptional as well.  They are not just good but exceptional.  In reality, I could go vineyard to vineyard and basically say the same thing.  They are just that good!

For the whites (which for those of you that know me), hang on to your hats.  I stepped out and called greatness from barrel on the 2004s and 2007s and I am doing the same thing right now with the 2010s.  They remind me a lot of the 2004s.  Beautiful acidity and fruit while balanced and absolutely laser like.  They absolutely need time to age though a little cheating to "chuck in on them" will certainly be well rewarded.  The success is so broad based at every level that I would rather point you to some of the Domaine visit notes rather than highlight a few as it really does not seem fair to the ones I do not name. 

All in all, this is a massively broad based success in the Cote d'Or and both the reds and whites need to be purchased, laid down, and enjoyed as they mature.  I am always happy to answer questions about specific wines if anyone has questions.  Just email us and I will get back to you.

As a side note, I cannot think of another single vintage that had such massive success in Bordeaux and Burgundy for both reds and whites.  If you got married or had children in 2010, congratulations and load the boat!

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