J-F Coche-Dury - Nicholas Silvers

For anyone reading this that knows me, it goes without saying that you know Coche is by far and away my favorite wine maker on the planet.  Chances are if you have dined with me, you have enjoyed the experience of his wines to know why.  Coche is probably the single most meticulous, perfectionist of a producer regardless of what nature hands him anywhere.  He is not driven by money, popularity or anything other than the desire to make the absolute best wines from his vineyards.  Each time I have been able to see him, it is nothing short of a spiritual experience for me.  Today was no exception.  In fact, this was the most comprehensive tasting I have had with him and I am as always, eternally grateful for his hospitality and candor.

Though I know better than to be late to see any of the Vingneron, we were especially vigilant about being on time to see Coche especially given our morning Mugnier event.  As our appointment was at 5pm (Coche does not take day time meetings as that is time to be spent working) we showed up in his driveway at 4:55.  After a bit of milling around his son came out.  We spoke for a minute and he called his father who had mistaken which day we were coming.  He asked if we could come back at 6:30 and graciously said that would be fine.  When we returned just before 6:30, there were no cars, all of the window shutters had been closed and it was looking as though we may get stood up.  I promised the rest of my group that he would not possibly do that and to hang in there.  We did and he showed, and I will say at this early moment of the year that we had what I consider to be the best tasting of 2012 (certainly, for pre-release wines).  As 2010 is a massively successful vintage for both reds and whites, I had big expectations and was not let down in the most comprehensive tasting I have had there.  Each level of his wines excels above other producers equivalent levels in my mind.  The notes can go on and on but at the end of the day, the experience is what is reality.  No one else in my group had been to taste with him before and I had built up a very big experience in their minds to the point where a let down would be possible but Coche blew them all away!  The run down of the wines is:

2010s - Bourgogne Blanc, Meursault Luchets, Meursault Chaumes, Meursault Vieuril Dessus, Meursault Narvaux, Meursault Chevalieres, Meursault Caillerets 1er Cru, Meursault Genevrieres 1er Cru, Meursault Perrieres 1er Cru, Corton Charlemagne, Bourgogne Rouge, Auxey-Duresses, Pommard, Volnay 1er Cru (blend of Clos des Chenes and Taillepieds), and as a kicker he opened and drank a bottle of 2009 Meursault Perrieres.

Tasting all of the different vineyards of Meursault before they are blended was an amazing experience.  Each one was definitely his signature but it showed an amazing divergence you get from each plot.  Some with far more forward minerality and razor sharp while others a bit more lush and rounded.  This was my first time having his Genevrieres and I was thrilled.  I had heard from a couple of people that his 2004 was a bit disappointing but whether it was an issue of vine maturity or his getting comfortable with the vineyard, it is all irrelevant now as this was incredible.  The 09 and 10 Meursault Perrieres practically brought me to my knees and the Corton Charlemagne stopped though show (though it clearly needs the most time).  We asked Coche what other vintage he might compare the 2010s to and he said 2004.  Everyone knows how great a thing that is!  He specifically compared the 2010 Perrieres to the 1978.  I have be fortunate enough one time to have the 1978 Coche Perrieres and to date it is the only wine that has made my eyes well up with tears as a point of reference.  The other suggestion he made was not to bother drinking the Corton Charlemagne for roughly 20-25 years.  And yes, it is that big and amazing!  When we asked him what he thinks is drinking the best now, he suggested 2000 and 2006 initially and later added 1997 and 2003.

So, I know this was a long one and I did actually try to keep it brief, but I am always happy to discuss his wines in more detail.