As I mentioned after my primeur tastings in April, I thought it would be a good idea to taste again and re-evaluate in June, and I have to say I am very glad that I did! The 2011s really need that extra time in barrel to integrate and put on weight and had everyone in the trade and press world waited I think some higher scores and certainly a lot more excitement would have appeared. The right bank is the clear winner of the vintage. Both St. Emilion and Pomeral are standing out and the best of these are not good but great wines. The left bank is a little less clear. There are some very clear winners (see Leoville Poyferre) and St. Julien in general seems to be the best appelation on the left. I did only spend one day on the left this trip so I will have to do a bit more this fall, but I think picking the right wines will be both a key and rewarding from the left.
All in all, I have become quite excited about the 2011s. I think that many are priced well (by no means all of them) and have the quality to justify owning them. Additionally, I think these will age a bit longer than I had originally but will still be great to drink while we wait to drink our 2010s. Day 1 - June 26: Carruades de Lafite (2011) - Red fruit, rich nose. Very soft tannins. Rich mouthful of red (dried) fruit. Cassis. A bit darker than I'd expect. Decent finish. The merlot really shows through and makes this quite expressive and exciting. I am impressed. Duhart Milon (2011) - Not much on the nose. Quite acidic and a very dark cherry, plumby fruit set. Short finish. Tight, tight, tight but I think time will make this a lovely drink. Lafite Rothschild (2011) - Tobacco on the nose. A bit like Carruades but tighter and much bigger. Dried fruit again and dark cherries. Has some backbone and tannin on the backside to hold it together. Give this a bit of time to come around, it needs it. Plenty of weight there and good balance. Leoville Poyferre (2011) - White flower rich expressive nose. Wow on first taste! Beautiful fruits and flowers on the palate. Full, rich, dark and acidity. Soft tannins. Amazing wine. This chateau is rolling full steam ahead. Incredible! I keep re tasting it and the more air it gets the better it is. This is a stunning wine even with the 09 next to it. Leoville Poyferre 2009 (again!) - Big red violet nose. Flashy, sexy, etc. I keep writing the same notes on 09s. They really are pole dancers. A mouthful of red fruit and flowers with a hint of spice box. Great acidity. Oddly, I find the tannins similar to the 11s. Long lasting finish that you just don't want to have end. Leoville Poyferre 2010 (again!) - 10 days after bottling so a little tight but still an expressive nose. Wow wow wow over and over and over!!! Just perfect in every way. I don't even need more desciptives. It is just THAT GREAT! Le Petit Lion (2011) - Plum and dark cherry nose. Deep dark cherry bomb. Nice tannin and acidity. Very nice second wine. Leoville Las Cases (2011) - Tight on the nose but I can't say that surprises me. Dark fruit comes through. Big chewy mouthful of dark fruit, blackberry and spice. Big wine. Long lasting finish with moderate tannic and lovely acidity. This is going to go a long way. Leoville Las Cases (1985) - Whoa! Proper claret. Spice and cedar nose. That nice dark aged fruit. Full and delicious. Drinking perfectly now. Silky and elegant which are not two words typically associated with Las Cases when young. It certainly makes the case for aging it. Just beautiful. Pichon Baron (2011) - This has tightened up from April and is showing a bit austere. Its still a big buggar but it is going into hibernation. Very tough to drink right now but given how I liked it in April I will reserve any opinions as it is just too shut down. Pichon Baron (2010) - Bottled 10 days ago and closed accordingly on the nose. Still massive and full of dark red fruit and spice. Just a mouthful! Great acidity and tannin and a huge finish. Always has been and continues to be a stunner of the vintage. Pichon Baron (2009) - Big, ripe, red fruit and rose nose. Massive mouthful of explosive red fruit, raspberry. This will live a long time. Huge finish. A bit more back bone than many of the 09s. This is one of the wines of the vintage hands down! Pichon Baron (2008) - A bit of sulphur leading the nose. After the 09 and 10 this comes off much lighter in style but definitely has the Baron characteristics of power and beauty. Lovely fruit and tannin (a bit over acidity). Long finish. Great wine to start enjoying now but really no rush. Day 2 - June 27 Clinet (2010) - Opened day before and still tight on the nose. No shortage on the pallet (just like Baron and Poyferre 10s yesterday). Huge, fresh, dark fruit. Massive but completely balanced with beautiful tannin and acidity. Amazing! Clinet (2007) - Dark plumby beautiful nose. Black fruit and very full. Still has nice acidity and freshness. A bit shorter on the finish than some but I would not hesitate to have a bottle at dinner. A great merlot which is ready to drink and will be for the next 5-8 years. L'Eglise Clinet (2011) - Red flower, very floral aromas. Very exotic. Almost chocolate on the nose. Pure elegance, extremely well structured with red fruits. Powerful but silky tannin and absolutely lovely acidity. This is magnificent! L'Eglise Clinet (2007) - The last btl out of owner Denis Durantou's personal stocks. Gamey, meaty full nose. Black fruit, ultra full on the palate. Really a mammoth wine but properly balanced and integrated. Drinks beautifully now and is calling for a big steak but I think even a couple more years in the cellar would be good if you can be patient (tres dificile!). Conseillante (2011) - A bit tight on the nose but some dark florals. Deep cassis, cigar and black fruit. Really a beautiful, big, deep wine. Really builds with air. Very nice finish with elegant tannin and acidity. Ignore the Parker score here, this is great. Ignore the Parker score here, this is great. And if my comment isn't enough, Denis Durantou of L'Eglise Clinet said it was his favorite. Conseillante (2010) - Whoa! Dark flower, fruit. Another brilliant 2010! Black fruit, cassis. Full, massive wine but actually extremely balanced with highly integrated tannin and amazing acidity. Wow. Ausone (2011) - Beautiful, forward red fruit and strawberry rose nose. Wow on the palate. I'm not a Ausone because its Ausone person but this is incredible. Mouthful of red fruit, strawberry, and light spice. Really beautiful tannin, acidity and ultimately fresh. Long floral finish that goes on and on. Superb! Ausone (2010) - Stop the show. Just a massive, explosive nose of strawberry and flowers. Holy cow! Like every other '10 it makes me want to dance! I'm really beyond words but will try. Explosions of berry and roses on the palate. It builds and grows as air is drawn. The finish is ethereal to the highest degree causing my eyes to roll back. Buy it if you can find it. I am. Day 3 - June 28 Angelus (2009) - nose is a bit closed but no surprise given it was just opened. However, the palate is an explosion of beautiful dark rip fruit. This is a massive wine with more structure than many 09s. Super long finish. This is a monster! To me, I believe this will be one of the longest lived and expressive wines of the vintage. Beau-Sejour Becot (2011) - Very expressive nose of raspberry, white flower (jasmine) and almond. Explosive on the pallet following through with the nose profile adding some spice, limestone and perfume. Soft tannin well integrated with great freshness. Lovely finish. Beau-Sejour Becot (2010) - Like the other 10s the noses have closed up a bit but the nose is still showing through better than most. Again expressive. The palate is an absolute explosion on red fruits and spice with a bit of the limestone. Amazing acidity/tannin balance. This will age (like all the 10s) longer than I may be able to enjoy but will not stop me trying. Troplong Mondot (2006) - Plumb, prune and red pepper. Spice as well on the nose. The red pepper and super spice on the palate. Huge in the typical Troplong style. Still so young (as the 06s are). Big supple tannin and acidity. Long, strong finish. Troplong Mondot (2011) - Lots of red flower, red fruit and spice nose. All following through to the palate. As always, massive young and full of forward tannin and acidity but in no way like tasting the 09 and 10 at this young age. Troplong requires time but the pieces are all there for another great wine. Clos Fourtet (2010) - (Bottled 7 days ago) Red jammy expressive nose. Really big! Dark fruit and minerality. A bit disjointed from the recent bottling but everything is there. Fear not this is another great 10. Clos Fourtet (2011) - A bit tight on the nose but you get some of the jamminess. Big fruit and dark. Still needs a bit of time for the fruit and wood to integrate, but I don't worry that it will. Tough timing as Matthieu had to pull a sample from barrel for us and I probably shouldn't have insisted. Lesson learned that the vigneron knows best.Day 4 - June 29 Malartic-Lagraviere (rouge 2011) - Bright red fruit and white flower nose. Ripe, red palate. Elegant tannin and very nice freshness. Expect a score upgrade/change on this from RMP next spring. Malartic-Lagraviere (rouge 2010) - Just bottled and again the nose is closed down a bit showing just hints of the red fruits and liquorices at this point. Beautiful palate of dark cherry and florals with the hint of spice. Really elegant tannin and beautiful freshness. Malartic-Lagraviere (blanc 2011) - Extremely tropical nose. Dried fruits and white flower but a little thin at this stage. Very lovely acidity and freshness. Smith Haut Lafitte (rouge 2007) - Exciting rip dark red berry nose with a red flower essence as well. Deep red fruit palate and pepper and green pepper. Nice finish with powerful tannin. Smith Haut Lafitte (rouge 2011) - Berry juice and a green plant (possibly thyme) adding to the rich nose. Some red fruit on pallet but a little bit thin or watery (might just be given the stage). I find the tannins a bit chewy and overpowering on the finish for my taste. I wouldn't rule it out for the vintage but we will see if it comes together in the next year a bit better. Smith Haut Lafitte (blanc 2011) - A bit of smoke and ash on the nose with some white flowers coming though. Nice richness and white peach style fruit and acidity on the pallet. Nice finish. Pape Clement (rouge 2011) - Black fruit and cassis nose. A bit closed really compared to others but it is a big one. The palate is a massive explosion of black fruit, dark jam, liquorices, cassis and a bit of tar. Long, strong finish. Big but not overpowering tannin and nice acidity. Long finish that you can chew on. Really big and concentrated. Pape Clement (blanc 2011) - Super exotic white tropical fruit nose. Fat, rich, mouthful of zest and white flower. Good balance and lovely acidity. Very nice. Angelus (2009) - nose is a bit closed but no surprise given it was just opened. However, the palate is an explosion of beautiful dark rip fruit. This is a massive wine with more structure than many 09s. Super long finish. This is a monster! To me, I believe this will be one of the longest lived and expressive wines of the vintage. Beau-Sejour Becot (2011) - Very expressive nose of raspberry, white flower (jasmine) and almond. Explosive on the pallet following through with the nose profile adding some spice, limestone and perfume. Soft tannin well integrated with great freshness. Lovely finish. Beau-Sejour Becot (2010) - Like the other 10s the noses have closed up a bit but the nose is still showing through better than most. Again expressive. The palate is an absolute explosion on red fruits and spice with a bit of the limestone. Amazing acidity/tannin balance. This will age (like all the 10s) longer than I may be able to enjoy but will not stop me trying. Troplong Mondot (2006) - Plumb, prune and red pepper. Spice as well on the nose. The red pepper and super spice on the palate. Huge in the typical Troplong style. Still so young (as the 06s are). Big supple tannin and acidity. Long, strong finish. Troplong Mondot (2011) - Lots of red flower, red fruit and spice nose. All following through to the palate. As always, massive young and full of forward tannin and acidity but in no way like tasting the 09 and 10 at this young age. Troplong requires time but the pieces are all there for another great wine. Clos Fourtet (2010) - (Bottled 7 days ago) Red jammy expressive nose. Really big! Dark fruit and minerality. A bit disjointed from the recent bottling but everything is there. Fear not this is another great 10. Clos Fourtet (2011) - A bit tight on the nose but you get some of the jamminess. Big fruit and dark. Still needs a bit of time for the fruit and wood to integrate, but I don't worry that it will. Tough timing as Matthieu had to pull a sample from barrel for us and I probably shouldn't have insisted. Lesson learned that the vigneron knows best.Day 4 - June 29 Malartic-Lagraviere (rouge 2011) - Bright red fruit and white flower nose. Ripe, red palate. Elegant tannin and very nice freshness. Expect a score upgrade/change on this from RMP next spring. Malartic-Lagraviere (rouge 2010) - Just bottled and again the nose is closed down a bit showing just hints of the red fruits and liquorices at this point. Beautiful palate of dark cherry and florals with the hint of spice. Really elegant tannin and beautiful freshness. Malartic-Lagraviere (blanc 2011) - Extremely tropical nose. Dried fruits and white flower but a little thin at this stage. Very lovely acidity and freshness. Smith Haut Lafitte (rouge 2007) - Exciting rip dark red berry nose with a red flower essence as well. Deep red fruit palate and pepper and green pepper. Nice finish with powerful tannin. Smith Haut Lafitte (rouge 2011) - Berry juice and a green plant (possibly thyme) adding to the rich nose. Some red fruit on pallet but a little bit thin or watery (might just be given the stage). I find the tannins a bit chewy and overpowering on the finish for my taste. I wouldn't rule it out for the vintage but we will see if it comes together in the next year a bit better. Smith Haut Lafitte (blanc 2011) - A bit of smoke and ash on the nose with some white flowers coming though. Nice richness and white peach style fruit and acidity on the pallet. Nice finish. Pape Clement (rouge 2011) - Black fruit and cassis nose. A bit closed really compared to others but it is a big one. The palate is a massive explosion of black fruit, dark jam, liquorices, cassis and a bit of tar. Long, strong finish. Big but not overpowering tannin and nice acidity. Long finish that you can chew on. Really big and concentrated. Pape Clement (blanc 2011) - Super exotic white tropical fruit nose. Fat, rich, mouthful of zest and white flower. Good balance and lovely acidity. Very nice.
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Pockets Wine Blog Jeff Moyers established Pocket’s Wine Co. in 2007 utilizing the State of Illinois Liquor License program where he currently operates as Managing Director. Pocket’s Wine Co. and SC Trading specialize in the fine, rare, and investment-grade wine market with a specific focus on First Growth Bordeaux, Champagne, Grand-Cru Burgundy, and high-end “ cult “ wines from the United States Archives
September 2012
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